How To Prevent Juniper Bushes From Turning Brown: 15 Hacks

Juniper Bush Turning Brown? Junipers are really good at making excellent landscape (environmental) design trees as well as shrubs because they can tolerate frost, high temperature, and even dryness.

Even with their toughness, junipers are susceptible to browning caused by a few illnesses as well as bug infestations.

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Amongst of the top probable explanations for why your juniper bushes are becoming brown include, cankers, fungal tip blights, structural stress, as well as rusts. Your juniper plants may be kept from becoming brown and also unattractive with proper maintenance and direct seeding procedures. You might well be prepared to prevent whatever browning has developed with caution and immediate intervention.

To prevent your juniper shrub from turning brown, simply pinpoint the culprit and afterward eliminate it using pesticides and careful maintenance. The contents in today’s post will cover just about everything you ought to understand.

  • Reasons For Juniper Bush Turning Brown
  • Ways to Prevent Juniper Trees and shrubs From Browning
  • How To Bring A Juniper Back To Life
  • Common Diseases Of Juniper
  • Home Remedy To Control Mites On Junipers
  • How Do You Maintain Junipers?
  • Juniper Tree Browning And Care In The Winter

Reason For Juniper Bush Turning Brown

The browning of your juniper needle can be caused by a variety of factors. Mostly it is because of these two culprits:

Juniper Bush Turning Brown
Juniper Bush Turning Brown

1. Spider Mites

Spider mites are tiny, nearly microscopic insects that feed on your plant’s sap. Your junipers or cedars are especially attractive to a sort of spider mite.

The afflicted section of your juniper turns brown as they drain the fluids from it. The population of spider mites can quickly grow, making their damage on your juniper appear to happen overnight.

2. Bagworms

Many evergreen conifers, especially junipers, are infested by bagworms also known as Thyridopteryx ephemeraeformis.

Bagworm caterpillars build their recognizable brown cocoon-like bags from your juniper’s foliage and also attach themselves to your juniper’s tissue before beginning to feed.

They move up to your juniper’s plant stems, adding your Juniper parts to the bags as they feed.

Isolated juniper branches can lose color and vigor due to small bagworm populations, but bigger infestations can strip your juniper tree of its leaves and kill it quickly.

Apart from these powdery mildew, mealy bugs are a few other culprits.

Ways to Prevent Juniper Trees and shrubs From Browning

  • Your Juniper plants should be planted in a location with good drainage. These shrubs are prone to fungal infections, which could also induce browning of their leaves, due to waterlogged roots as well as extreme wetness.
  • Congestion and also the heightened danger of fungal infection which goes with it may be avoided by spacing your juniper shrubs widely sufficiently apart. A decent general juniper care is to space them out such that their breath when developed is equivalent to their separation from one another.
  • Bagworms may end up causing juniper turning brown inside and even kill your juniper shrubs, so keep an eye out for them. Check for white sacks approximately 2 inches in length that are dangling from the tops of their twigs. Pick up the bags then destroy them; they’re full of bagworms that might wreak serious harm.
  • When you detect caterpillars developing around late springtime and slightly earlier summer, treat your junipers using fully prepared bacillus thuringiensis, an organic microbial pesticide. Spraying should be done each 10 days till mid-summer. While applying, use protective goggles and douse till your plant parts are totally damp.
  • Webworms are little brown bugs having red-brown stripes extending vertically that may be seen on your juniper shrubs during early July. Their web-like nests envelop juniper foliage, causing discoloration and, under extreme cases, death. Remove and kill webs as well as bugs, then treat your juniper leaves regularly for three weeks using readily available bacillus thuringiensis.
  • The cedar apple rot fungus may be identified by vibrant orange lesions on shoots. Your juniper shrub ends become brown or even die as a result of this, although the shrub itself normally lives. Utilizing pointed bypass trimmers, remove the orange necrotic lesions. Prior and immediately following clipping, use a home antiseptic to sanitize the cutters to avoid the distribution of illness.
  • Blisters somewhere at bottom of the stems and dark foliage ends clearly show the activity of a juniper midge on your shrub, very little bug which feeds on growing juniper. During warmer months, treat your shrubs using fully prepared insecticidal detergent to destroy matured midges plus fully prepared mild gardening oil to destroy the eggs. While applying whichever spray, make sure that all of the damaged foliage is thoroughly covered.
  • To keep dogs against peeing on your juniper house plant, douse it using pet repellent. Not only does dog pee taint leaves, but it may also destroy shoots.
  • Weave 1/4-inch cotton cloth shields around the branch bottoms of your junipers to deter rodents from gnawing the wood off as well as increasing the danger of infestation and illness.
  •  Put a barricade on the branches of your Juniper using an anti-desiccant mist to effectively reduce water escape as well as browning.

How To Bring A Juniper Back To Life

  • Step 1– To prevent damaging your attractive yet fragile red cedar trees, hone your old trimming tools. Move each edge of your cutters gradually far from you all over a honing stone with a couple drops of motor or lubricating oils. Repeat around 12 times to give your cutters edge a new look.
  • Step 2– Prior to actually shaping your juniper, detach any lifeless ends infected with fungal end diseases underneath the canker developed in which the brown end and primary stem intersect. Strictly remove damaged ends when the conditions are dry.
  • Step 3– To avoid disease transmission, disinfect your trimming cutters periodically while trimming your juniper shrubs suffering fungal tip illnesses. Apply rubbing alcohol or maybe even a dilution of 10% home chlorine. After you’ve finished clipping, clean your cutters.
  • Step 4– Remove ¼ to ⅓ of lengthy, lanky shoots that stretch further than your Juniper trees or shrub’s center. Don’t ever trim down Juniper trees lacking foliage, and always trim where flanking shoots would disguise the trim. Branches should be clipped at an inclination so that rainfall as well as dew would drain off instead of collecting on the incision.
  • Step 5– Trim the tops of your juniper shrub to allow sunlight to reach the roots. Your juniper turns brown and dies when it’s basal leaves are shaded.
  • Step 6– Complete all pruning chores of your Juniper shrub by the end of the rainy season. Trimming too late in the season might produce new growth that is susceptible to fungal infections.

Common Diseases Of Juniper

Your junipers frequently show dieback of shoot tips or entire shoots, as well as browning of foliage, due to twig and tip blights.

Juniper DiseasesIndicationsCauseManagement
Twig BlightJuniper stems die at their tips, turning brown and otherwise ash gray.   For weeks, they linger on the Juniper bush.   Significantly bigger Juniper shoots are vulnerable to invasion and girdling.  

Tiny, black, freckle fungal blooming structures sprout on the infected tissue of the Juniper where it intersects the still-living twigs.  

The spores are round and colorless when examined under a microscope. 
Kabatina or PhomopsisRemove diseased limbs and sections and dispose of them. Twig blight can be caused by either Kabatina or rather Phomopsis upon a single plant.  

Once fresh shoots appear on your shrub, use a fungicide to manage it.
Cedar Apple RustGalls upon your Juniper branches are clear and spherical, equivalent to the dimensions of a golf ball.

As with a golf ball, these galls outer layer might be contoured.
Gymnosporangium juniperi-virginianaeGalls should be pruned and destroyed before any fungal horns emerge.  

Inside your greenhouse, spray a fungicide on your Juniper shrubs between the middle of July and the beginning of August.
Cercospora BlightThe leaves of your Juniper turn tanned, brown, and then gray throughout the warmer months.  

The leaves of the innermost and bottom shoots of your Juniper are the foremost to be impacted. This infection spreads upward and externally on your bush, eventually reaching the twig ends.  

This would be in contrast to twig blights, which typically begin near the tips of branches. Affected shoots of Juniper have dark fungal new growth formations that burst beyond the outer edge.  

Impacted shoots shrink and fall, leaving your Juniper shrub exposed and barren.
Cercospora sequoiae var. juniperiThe fungus survives the cold weather on juniper plants, germs are available pretty much all season, and illness can develop when weather conditions are moderate and wetness is retained on the leaves. Try not to wet your plant’s leaves excessively.  

It is preferable to remove your Juniper shrubs rather than try to manage the illness using biocontrol agents. A fungicide, on the other hand, can be utilized.
Cedar Quince, Japanese Apple Rust, and Cedar HawthornDuring the springtime, the fresh foliage and limbs of Juniper exhibit vibrant orange blotches that resemble paint rust stains.  

These blotches deepen and turn from a faint orange to a reddish tint.  

Other than throughout the springtime, once juniper plants’ outer layer is orange with pathogens, little twig lumps are undetectable.  

Contaminated Juniper tree twigs’ wood breaks away, development stops, and branches die back.
Gymnosporangium clavipes for Cedar Quincerust   Gymnosporangium yamadae for Japanese apple rust   Gymnosporangium globosum for Cedar Hawthorn Rust    Inside your greenhouse, spray a fungicide on your Juniper shrubs between the middle of July and the beginning of August.  

Prune off affected Juniper leaves immediately.

Home Remedy To Control Mites On Junipers

Mites’ ecological predators include ladybugs, killer mites, as well as other bugs. Mite populations are normally suppressed by these predators.

Juniper Needles Turning Brown
Juniper Needles Turning Brown

Insecticides should be avoided unless absolutely essential because they kill helpful predators as well as mites.

Misuse of insecticides can lead to an increase in mite problems by increasing the death of natural mite predators.

Helpful bugs are less harmed by miticides designated for mite management. If used on a regular basis, a forceful spray of water can be used to kill mites.

There are some other ways to control mites on Juniper

1. Biology Control

Spider mite populations are kept in check by natural predators such as lacewings, thrips, ladybugs, and predatory mites (Phytoseiulus persimilis). Avoid using insecticides to encourage these beneficial insects to stay. Water flower and garden beds on a regular basis and mulch them.

The above voracious bugs and pests could very well consume large numbers of mites every day while causing no long-term damage to you and your Junipers.

2. Hot Peppers

The effects of pepper components from chile, jalapenos, cayenne peppers as well as bell peppers on spider mites were studied.

The above peppers killed around 45 percent of all mature spider mites. Additional pepper varieties, including Bishop’s crown peppers as well as lemon drop peppers, however, are repellent to spider mites.

3. Rubbing Alcohol

Spider mites can be further killed with rubbing alcohol, which you probably keep about inside your home. Cotton balls soaked inside rubbing alcohol should be wiped on the foliage of infected indoor Juniper trees and shrubs.

Allow the soapy water or rubbing alcohol to remain on your Juniper shrubs for a couple of hours before properly rinsing the foliage using water.

Water sprayed from a yard sprayer will also assist in effectively eliminating unwanted spider mites which might have escaped the impacts of improvised repellents on your Juniper.

Spider mites may be washed away with water, but these Juniper bugs may reappear following each treatment.

4. Essential Oils

Fundamental oils of coriander, rosemary, neem, spearmint, and chamomile proved to be highly reliable in destroying multiple spider mite babies and grownups on junipers.

These are the sort of oils that are commonly utilized. Douse the affected foliage of your Juniper shrubs using a plastic container filled with water plus a couple of drops of any essential oil of your preference of the suggested range.

How Do You Maintain Juniper?

Find the steps below in order to care juniper shrubs.

Watering Juniper

Juniper trees and shrubs demand very little if any additional watering following planting.

Excessive moisture (Overwatering), instead of Underwatering, will be more prone to result in infection transmission.

Water freshly rooted Juniper shrubs each week or 2 till the root systems have grown. It is preferable to preserve the soil wet amid excessively hot or dry weather.

Pruning Juniper

Pruning should be done mostly in springtime. No trimming is required when you let your Juniper have adequate room to develop to maturity.

Juniper shrubs can indeed be trimmed to reduce dead or diseased shoots or to influence them into a preferred form.

Avoid the use of hedge cutters during trimming. Reduce your Juniper shrub stem by stem for the greatest results for juniper bush care.

Fertilizing Juniper

Juniper shrubs are low-maintenance and require very little if any supplementary fertilization. You may use an all-purpose delayed-release plant food in the springtime if you choose.

Spread throughout the root area according to product directions. To counteract chemical burn as well as take care of juniper bonsai be sure to water properly.

Juniper Shrubs In Containers

Grow your Juniper Shrub inside a container that is 8 inches and perhaps larger in circumference than your juniper’s root system. This enables for a growing period of two to three years.

To aid water runoff, use a high-quality potting medium or gardening combination. Junipers prefer soil that is both wet and well-draining.

Make certain that the bottom of your planter includes discharge openings. Root rot and other illnesses can be caused by wet soil.

Juniper Tree Browning And Care In The Winter

Juniper plants and bushes have always been drought tolerant and cold tolerant. Several Junipers are hardy enough to endure harsh cold weather and don’t demand particular special attention.

Winter burn is a risk for certain Junipers. Winter burn may be identified when the ends of your juniper’s shoots actually start to brown and afterward move to the heart of your juniper shrub.

  • Offer your juniper bushes additional water mostly in autumn to help it retain dampness for the cold season, and you’ll avoid getting winter burn.
  • Increase the amount of mulch you use to assist your juniper plant’s soil stay hydrated. Vital part of juniper bonsai tree winter care.
  • Burlap could also be used to shield your Juniper bush from the strong gusts as well as snow.

What Does Juniper Blight Look Like?

The final development of an infected juniper shrub dies back, indicating juniper twig blight. The damaged tissue would eventually move into the juniper’s primary leaves, turning pale green, crimson brown, and perhaps even deep gray.

Q: Is It Needed To Water My Juniper Tree On A Regular Basis?

If there isn’t any rainfall during the initial 2 months, give water to freshly grown junipers a couple of times a week.

Q: What Is The Finest Juniper Shrub Fertilizer?

Nourish your juniper bonsai using a full, slow-release plant food with a composition like 12-4-8 and 16-4-8 once a year during the early spring period.

Q: Is It Achievable To Develop Juniper In The Shade?

Particularly throughout cool-summer climates, typical juniper, as well as mono seed juniper, may survive some shadow, however must not be grown in thick shade.

Q: Can I Use Neem Oil On Junipers?

Definitely. Neem oil has been shown to be an impactful tool in the control of insects.

Conclusion

Examine your Juniper shrub for symptoms of mites, including a sandy or gray look created with their webs.

You might well be likely to block mites from draining the vital fluids off your Juniper and making the shrub brown if you notice your juniper becoming dusty right on time.